History and origin
The festival of the Virgin of Carmen in Paucartambo dates back to the 17th century when the Spanish crown sent the image of the Virgin of Carmen to Paucartambo. The tradition tells that devotion began when Doña María Campos, a woman of good economic standing traveling between Puno and Paucartambo, arranged for the transfer of a miraculous image from Pucará to Paucartambo.
The Mamacha Carmen
“Mamacha” is an Andean expression of affection and respect meaning “little mother.” The Virgin of Carmen of Paucartambo is affectionately known as “Mamacha Carmen” and is considered the Patroness and Honorary Mayor of the Province.
Important recognitions
- 1972: Declared “Patron of Folkloric Dances”
- 1985: Crowned by Pope John Paul II during his visit to Peru
- 2006: The festival was declared Cultural Heritage of the Nation
- 2011: Nominated as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity
The grand festival (July 15-18)
Location
Paucartambo is located at:
- Altitude: 3,017 meters above sea level
- Distance from Cusco: 109-110 kilometers (2.5-3 hours by transport)
- Features: Historic town with colonial architecture
Celebration calendar
July 15 – Start of the festival
- Afternoon: Rehearsal of traditional dances
- Evening: Burning of castles (fireworks)
- Activities: Night serenades to the Virgin
- Ceremony: “Cera Apaycuy” (transfer of wax and flowers)
July 16 – Central day
- 5:00 AM: Aurora Mass at dawn
- 10:00 AM: Celebration Mass with Qolla and Qhapac Negro songs
- Noon: Parade of the 19 traditional dances
- Afternoon: Procession of the Virgin of Carmen
- Special activity: “The Forest” – distribution of fruits and crafts from balconies
July 17 – Day of blessing
- Morning: Visit to the cemetery to honor deceased dancers
- Afternoon: The famous “Guerrilla” – ritual battle between Qollas and Chunchos
- Evening: Night celebrations
July 18 – Farewell
- Main activity: “Kacharpari” – farewell party
- Ceremony: Changing the image’s clothing
- Blessing: Hoqarikuy (blessing of children)
- Closing: Final blessing by the priest
The 19 traditional dances
Main dances
Qhapaq Qolla
- Represents: Highland merchants arriving with llamas
- Costume: Adorned hats, waq’ollo (balaclava), q’epi with stuffed vicuña
- Meaning: Colonial trade exchange
Qhapaq Chuncho
- Represents: Native Amazonian warriors from the Qósñipata Valley
- Costume: Multicolored feathers (ch’ucu), wire masks, chonta spear
- Meaning: Guardians of the Virgin
Qhapaq Negro
- Represents: African slaves from the colonial era
- Costume: Chains as a sign of submission, elegant outfits
- Meaning: The “slaves of the Virgin of Carmen”
Saqra
- Represents: Andean demons that cannot look at the Virgin
- Characteristics: Perform risky acrobatics on roofs and balconies
- Function: Symbolize the evil forces attempting to tempt
Other significant dances
- Contradanza: Spanish agricultural dance
- Majeños: Wine merchants from the Arequipa valley
- Doctorcitos (Siklla): Professionals and magistrates
- Waca Waca: Spanish bullfighting festival
- Auqa Chileno: Chilean soldiers from the Pacific War
- Panaderos: Bakery workers
- Kachampa: Young Inca warriors
The guerrilla – ritual battle
Event description
The “Guerrilla” is a theatrical representation held on July 17 in the Paucartambo square. It is a symbolic battle between:
The Qhapaq Qollas:
- Represent the highlands (Collasuyo)
- Claim that the Virgin belongs to them
- Set up their camp in the square
The Qhapaq Chunchos:
- Represent the jungle (Antisuyu)
- Defend that the Virgin should stay in Paucartambo
- Always emerge victorious
Dramatic development
- The Qollas set up camp
- The Chunchos use tricks to distract them
- They kidnap the “Imilla” (the only Qolla woman)
- Ritual battle with victory for the Chunchos
- The Saqras (demons) collect the “dead” in fire carts
Religious syncretism
Cultural fusion
The festival represents a perfect fusion between:
- Catholic religion: Spanish Marian devotion
- Andean traditions: Ceremonies to Pachamama
- Amazonian elements: Jungle dances
- Republican history: Representations of national events
Spiritual significance
The celebration combines:
- Christian prayers with Andean rituals
- Catholic processions with ancestral dances
- Catholic saints with Andean deities
- Christian faith with Inca worldview
Complementary attractions
Mirador Tres Cruces
Location: 45 km from Paucartambo (2 hours travel) Altitude: 3,800 meters above sea level Special phenomenon: “White lightning” or “three suns” Best time: June and July (winter solstice) Schedule: Departure 1:00 AM, show 4:30-6:00 AM
Colonial architecture
Paucartambo preserves:
- Colonial bridge Carlos III
- Church where the image is venerated
- Typical colonial balconies
- Historic cobblestone streets
Traditional gastronomy
Special dishes of the festival
- Paucartambo snack: Emblematic dish of syncretism
- Qapchi de habas: Traditional Andean preparation
- Roasted guinea pig: Regional specialty
- Lamb stew: Festive food
- Stuffed rocoto: Traditional spicy dish
Practical information for tourists
How to get there
From Cusco:
- Distance: 109-110 kilometers
- Time: 2.5 to 3 hours
- Public transport: Buses from Av. Diagonal Angamos (S/ 15)
- Private tours: Available through agencies
Recommendations
Accommodation:
- Book in advance (very high demand)
- Option to stay in Cusco and travel early
Preparation:
- Warm clothing for the nights
- Prior acclimatization to altitude
- Camera for the dances
- Respectful attitude towards traditions
Best time
Dry season: April to October (ideal conditions) Festival: July 15-18 (unique experience) Tres Cruces phenomenon: June and July
Cultural legacy
Anthropological importance
The festival of the Virgin of Carmen of Paucartambo represents:
- One of the most authentic cultural expressions of Peru
- Perfect example of Andean religious syncretism
- Preservation of oral traditions and ancestral dances
- Living manifestation of indigenous cultural resistance
International projection
- Recognized as one of the most important festivals in South America
- Attracts researchers from anthropology and folklore worldwide
- Nominated for Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity
- Model of community cultural preservation